![]() Notice that virtually any coolant you can buy that's not "classic green" will meet or exceed that spec. The label on the actual bottle states it meets ASTM D3306. Round and round and round the coolant topics go. Fully compatible with Ford WSS-M97B51-A1Įxtended Life Blue – 150K/5yr change interval.Fully compatible with GM 6277M (Dex-Cool Spec)Įxtended Life Pink – 150K/5yr change intervalĮxtended Life Red – 150K/5yr change intervalĮxtended Life Gold – 150K/5yr change interval.Standards met or exceeded by Recochem’s OEM brand coolants:Įxtended Life Euro I – Blue -150K/5yr change intervalĮxtended Life Euro II – Purple – 150K/5yr change intervalĮxtended Life Green – 150K/5yr change intervalĮxtended Life Orange (Dex-Cool class formulation) – 150K/5yr change interval There's not that much water left in pools via a flush.īy the way, since OEM Brand (Recochem) has been mentioned, and since I'm always telling people that what they must do is to look to the coolant specification the original equipment manufacturer used in a specific vehicle when choosing a replacement coolant, here is a list of which specs are met, exceeded, and/or precisely matched by OEM branded coolants, without further comment: But we are talking very slightly more, not, say 60/40. If you're someone who actually does flushing, then the second change would not be necessary, and you should dilute the concentrate at slightly more than 50% to account for the small bit of water pooling in the system that a flush leaves behind. At the second, you are pretty much assured that whatever had been in there was thoroughly diluted by the first lifetime change, and the second is "close enough to pure," that it can be treated as true lifetime. When I'm doing a conversion to lifetime coolant, I do an initial change, then one between five and seven years later, as I do not try to flush in most cases and you do have residual coolant at places in the system with the first change. The issue with anti-corrosion chemistry "wearing out" was solved in commercial applications some years ago, and it has been carried over now to the automotive side of things by Peak (and a couple of others, but since I don't use them I can't remember who right now). My absolute favorite currently available coolant, for any car, is Peak Global Lifetime. ![]() You are correct that the anti-corrosion properties are what peter out, and that is why old "classic green" antifreeze had to be changed every 2 years, because anti-corrosion chemistry wore out over that period.Īnd I am, and will continue to be, a contrarian when it comes to "the right" coolant. The antifreeze/antiboil properties of ethelene glycol at or very near the 50/50 level are for all practical intents and purposes perpetual. I read tons about "do not mix green and orange", "do not mix two different colors" as well as tons of "does not matter."Ĭlick to expand.That is absolutely incorrect. So, question, can I just open the engine coolant reservoir and add my Prestone for All vehicles up to the F line when the engine is cold? Is that it? I don't know what color Prestone for All Vehicles is. The color of the fluid in the reservoir is pink. This time the level of fluid was kind of in the middle between F and L. The level of the fluid in my engine coolant reservoir was a little below L when the engine was cold (I had not driven it for 4 days before I checked it.) Then, I drove it like 15 miles and checked it again when the engine was hot. 317 and it shows how to add coolant in p.325) I am sharing this information because I want to make sure I am looking at the right thing? I am "completely" new to cars as I said. I looked at the engine coolant reservoir by following the manual: (item number 11 in p. I went to Walmart and bought a bottle of Prestone Coolant for All Vehicles 50/50. ![]() Someone told me to look at the coolant and add if necessary. The only thing that has been done is oil change. I drove it around 10k miles since I bought it. I looked it up online but there are different ideas and most of the posts are old.
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